Central Vacuum System FAQ

A central vacuum system is a built-in system that consists of a central vacuum unit, vacuum tubing system and accessory kit. The vacuum unit is generally installed in a basement, garage or mechanical room. Vacuum inlets are located in positions throughout the house that allow all areas to be reached with a 30’ or 35’ hose. The accessory kit includes the hose, carpet brush, other attachments, wands, hose hanger and other items.

A central vacuum system provides many cleaning, personal and financial benefits.

• Power - central vacuums are up to 5 times more powerful than portable vacuums, so cleaning is more effective.
• Improved Indoor Air Quality - Unlike portable vacuums that exhaust some of the dirt back into the living space, central vacuums convey debris through the tubing system to a vacuum unit that is located in non-living space area and possibly exhausted outside.
• Health – Allergens exhausted into the living space by a portable vacuum go instead to a non-living space area and possibly outside with a central vacuum. This feature is particularly beneficial to those that suffer from allergies and asthma.
• Light Weight – A central vacuum hose and cleaning attachment are much lighter than a portable upright or canister vacuum
• Maintenance - A large dirt canister and simple filter cleaning or bag changes result in less maintenance compared to a portable vacuum.
• Quiet - Noise typically associated with a portable vacuum in the living area is moved to the basement or garage. Often, the central vacuum unit cannot be heard in the room being cleaned.
• Versatile – Central vacuums work well for cleaning of carpet, rugs, smooth floors, baseboards, table tops, upholstery, vents, ceiling fans, garages, cars and virtually any other area of the home.
• Value – Central vacuums can easily last 20 years, so replacement cost is much less than for portable vacuums. Better cleaning of carpet, rugs and upholstery provides longer life for those items. Fewer maintenance items results in further savings.
• Home Value – As a built-in appliance, central vacuum systems add value to a home.

Portable vacuums exhaust fine dust back into the living space. These allergens are breathed in, resulting in irritation to the lungs. Those who suffer from asthma and allergies are particularly affected by this. Central vacuums are more powerful than portable vacuums and convey the allergens to the vacuum unit located in a non-living space area and possibly outside. More dirt and allergens are removed from the living space. There is no emission of allergens into the living space.

A central vacuum offers a several benefits for homes with pets.

• Superior power means better removal of pet hair and dander.
• Odor associated with pet hair and dander is moved to the basement or garage. There is no exhaust air in the living space. An outside exhaust removes the odor from the house
• Pet hair greatly increases maintenance and reduces the operating life of a portable vacuum.
• Pet hair and dander increase supply costs for portable vacuum bags and filters. Central vacuums minimize or eliminate these costs, particularly when cyclonic and permanent models are used

A standard central vacuum system should not be used to pick up liquids. Damage to the motor, mold and mildew can occur if this is done. For those applications where this is necessary (e.g., restaurant, veterinary clinic, etc.), a separator can be used to remove the liquids before they enter the tubing system.

Central vacuums can be installed in most existing homes. Ideal homes are ranchers with either accessible attics or basement ceilings and 2-story homes with both accessible attics and basement ceilings. Homes with limited access may require the services of a professional installer who is adept at locating routes without damaging walls or drywall.

A central vacuum unit can easily last 20 years. The life expectancy of a hose, carpet brush and attachments varies depending upon use.

The cost of a central vacuum system is dependent on the size of the vacuum unit, the number of inlets, difficulty of installation, and the number and type of accessory kits that are desired. A system installed in a 3,000 sq. ft. house during construction will generally be less than $2,000. Installation in an existing house can add several hundred dollars.

The type of collection device is a personal preference more than anything else. Bagless units can generally hold more debris and as a result have to be emptied less than units with bags. Bagless units save on bag costs and provide some favorable environmental impact. Filters on bagless units can be messy and difficult to clean and can reduce suction if not maintained properly. The screens on cyclonic units can also be messy and difficult to clean. These units allow dirt to pass through the motor fans which can reduce their operating life.

Disposable bag units are easy to maintain. Removal and replacement of a bag generally takes less than 30 seconds. Because the bag traps virtually all of the dirt, the filters in these units require very little if any maintenance. There is some additional cost and environmental impact associated with this system.

A cyclonic vacuum unit does not have a filter or disposable bag that air passes through. These units have 1 or 2 cones that create a "cyclone" inside the unit. Heavier debris is forced to the outside of the can and drops into the dirt can. Lighter debris and air stay towards the center, pass through the motor fans and are exhausted. Cyclonic units must always be exhausted to the outside because some light dust is exhausted. A screen protects the motor fans from any large piece of debris that could damage the motor. This screen needs to be cleaned periodically

The location of the vacuum unit is largely determined by personal preference. The location has little or no effect on the functionality of the system. There is generally more space for the vacuum unit in a basement and less effects of moisture and temperature. Emptying the canister in a garage can be more convenient. When a system is installed in an existing house, the availability of an electric outlet for the vacuum unit can be a key consideration.

Only cyclonic vacuum units must be exhausted to the outside. Units with filters and/or bags trap virtually all of the debris in the container. Outside exhaust can be installed on any other unit as long as there is an exhaust tube. If the unit has two motors, then two separate exhaust lines must be run. Exhaust lines should be no longer than 20 ft. Exhausting to the outside reduces noise inside the home and insures that 100% of the allergens vacuumed are contained in the vacuum unit or exhausted outside.

Dirt picked up by the cleaning attachment passes through the hose, into the inlet, through the tubing system and down to the dirt canister of the vacuum unit.

Installation of a muffler will reduce the noise from the exhaust. This is a personal preference issue. The benefit varies depending on the location of the vacuum unit relative to the living area and location of the outside exhaust. A muffler has no operational impact.

Vacuum pipe has a slick inside surface that facilitates conveyance of the dirt to the vacuum unit. This is not the case for plumbing pipe. Diameters of the two types are different. Vacuum pipe will fit into the inlet and vacuum unit connections whereas plumbing pipe will not. The radius's on vacuum elbows are better suited for a vacuum system. If use of vacuum pipe is not practical, adapters that convert from plumbing pipe to vacuum pipe are available. You can find our central vacuum pipe by clicking here.

Electric vacuum inlets have connections for both low voltage and high voltage wire. The low voltage wire is run from the inlet back to the vacuum unit. This control wire enables the vacuum unit to be turned on when the hose is inserted into the inlet or the switch on the hose is turned on. The high voltage wire is typically run from the inlet to the nearest electric outlet. The high voltage plug on the vacuum inlet provides power for an electric carpet brush. Low voltage inlets have connections for low voltage wire only. These are used when an electric carpet brush will not be used or a pigtail hose will be used with an electric carpet brush.

Generally, a central vacuum inlet can be used to clean multiple rooms. It is best to locate them in hallways, next to doors and other positions where the most area can be cleaned from a given inlet and furniture does not block access to the inlet.

An electric carpet brush has a built-in motor that turns the roller brush. An air-driven carpet brush has an impeller that is spun by the vacuum air and thereby turns the roller brush. Bristles on electric carpet brushes are generally stiffer than those on air-driven heads. Because of the stiffer bristles and more consistent brush rotation, electric carpet brushes generally clean better than air-driven ones. This is particularly true for pet hair and plush carpet. Air-driven carpet brushes are ideal for homes with no pets, pets that don’t shed and minimal carpet and rugs.

An electric outlet is required for the vacuum unit. A dedicated outlet is recommended. Consult the owner’s manual for details. Electric vacuum inlets require a high voltage wire, generally 12/2 or 14/2, to be run to the nearest electric outlet. All vacuum inlets require low voltage wire, generally 18/2 to 22/2, to be run from the inlets to the vacuum unit. If an electric hose with pigtail cord will be used, the low voltage vacuum inlet needs to be within 7 ft. of an electric outlet.

Generally, anyone that is reasonably handy can install a central vacuum system. Skills and tools are needed to drill 2 ½" holes; lay out a system that achieves proper air flow and minimizes pipe run and elbows; cut, run and glue pipe; install and connect wire to inlets; mount the vacuum unit; and drill and run an exhaust if applicable.

Tools that are typically required to install a central vacuum system are:

• Right angle drill with 2 ½" bit
• Hack saw or pipe cutter
• Wire stripper
• Drill
• Phillips screwdriver
• Tape measure
• Level
• Ladder

• Drywall saw
• Long pilot bit

Installation time depends on the size and complexity of the house and whether installation is done during or after construction. For a typical 3,000 sq. ft. house, rough-in during construction can generally be completed in one day by one person. Finish out takes hours. For this installation in an existing house, most if not all of the installation can be done in one day by two persons.

Prevention of clogs breaks down into system installation, maintenance and operation. A properly installed system will have short radius elbows behind the inlets that catch objects such as pencils from getting into the tubing system. Long radius elbows must be used throughout the rest of the system. Use of 45 degree elbows instead of 90’s is recommended when possible. Avoidance of gravity drops (elbow on a trunk line pointing down) is critical. The vacuum unit must have enough power to convey the debris through the tubing system.

The vacuum unit must have adequate power and be properly maintained to provide enough power to convey debris through the tubing system. The dirt can must be emptied when full, disposable bag replaced and/or filter cleaned. When vacuuming, care must be taken not to pick up large objects that could lodge in the hose or tubing system, pine needles or large quantities of fine dust (drywall, saw dust, etc.).

First determine where the clog is located. Run an object such as a marble through the hose to determine if it is clogged. If not, try the hose at every vacuum inlet. Locate the vacuum inlet that does not have suction and is closest to the vacuum unit. Remove the dirt can on the vacuum unit and unplug the cord. Use a powerful portable vacuum such as a wet/dry vacuum and suck backwards from the vacuum inlet or the hose if it is clogged. If this doesn’t work, try using a plumber’s snake. If the clog is still lodged after these two steps, you may want to have a professional central vacuum technician remove the clog.

Suction and air flow are reduced as the distance from the vacuum unit and length of hose are increased. This "friction loss" is minimal provided that the system was properly installed. Unless the vacuum unit was under-powered, there will be plenty of suction and air flow when using the inlet furthest from the vacuum unit.

The vacuum unit and other components of the system are completely independent. The vacuum unit does not have to be replaced with the same brand. There were a few vacuum units made many years ago that had latching relays. Systems with these units had push buttons on the inlets. Call us if you have one of these systems.

A central vacuum unit has four components: motor, filtration system, activation device and canister. Motors have different power levels and construction. Power level is rated in air watts and is determined by the number, diameter and height of the motor fans and motor RPM’s. Motors that are all metal and have fan diameters greater than 6" will have the longest operating life.

There are three types of filtering systems: disposable bag, bagless with filter and cyclonic. Personal preference is the key deciding factor. There are variations of all three. Some disposable bags are easier to change than others. Some filters are permanent while others must be replaced. Some cyclonic units are easier to maintain than others. Most vacuum units available today have a circuit board that enables the vacuum unit to be turned on from the inlet or hose. There is a significant range in replacement costs of these boards. Canisters are made of metal, plastic or a combination and are emptied from the top or bottom.

The power required of a central vacuum unit is dependent on the longest pipe run (distance from vacuum unit to furthest vacuum inlet, adjusted for elbows). Manufacturers do not publish guidelines associating vacuum units to pipe run, so air watts and sq. ft. recommendations can be used. Air watts is a calculation of power that uses the water lift and CFM specs. Air watts generally range from 400 to 1,200. A vacuum unit rated at 500 air watts can easily handle a 3,000 sq ft., 2-story home. Sq. ft. recommendations are typically overstated. We recommend taking your sq. ft. and adding 50-100%. So for a 3,000 sq. ft. house, consider a vacuum unit that is rated for 4,500 to 6,000 sq. ft.

HEPA is an acronym for High Efficiency Particulate Air. To be classified as HEPA, a filter must remove 99.97% of particles 0.3 microns or larger. To the extent that the central vacuum unit is in or near living space and an outside exhaust is not installed, a central vacuum unit with either a HEPA filter or HEPA bag will reduce the chance of emission of particles into the living area. Outside exhaust of the vacuum unit makes a HEPA filter or bag unnecessary as none of the exhaust air and particulate stays in the home.

A stationary brush with natural bristles is the best tool to clean hardwood floors. The bristles loosen debris from the crevices of the floor. Natural bristles do not scratch the wood.

In most cases, it is not necessary to purchase the same brand central vacuum hose. There are four types of central vacuum hoses: direct connect, pigtail, low voltage and straight suction. A direct connect hose has two round pins about ½" long that plug into an electric vacuum inlet. A pigtail hose has an electric cord extending from the inlet end of the hose that plugs into a nearby electric outlet. Direct connect and pigtail hoses are used with electric carpet brushes. Low voltage hoses do not have pins* or cord on the inlet end, and do have a switch on the hose handle that turns on the vacuum unit. Straight suction hoses do not have pins, cords or switches. Low voltage and straight suction hoses cannot be used with electric carpet brushes.

For each of these four types, there are variations in the cuff that goes into the inlet and the handle end. Hoses designed for Vacuflo, Nutone , Budd and Kenmore inlets have slightly smaller cuffs. In many cases, standard hoses can be used in these inlets by making slight modifications or adding adapters. Variations in the handle end include presence and location of locking button, position of electric plug in electric hoses, and cord management hose/wand connections. Please call us if you have any question on hose replacement. * The exception is a Vacuflo TurboGrip low voltage hose which has two pins on the inlet end. There is no electric connection on the handle of these hoses.

There are two types of carpet brushes: air-driven and electric. Air-driven carpet brushes are universal. Factors that differentiate electric carpet brushes are the connection of the lower wand to the carpet brush, whether proprietary or universal wands can be used, connection of cord through the wands to the hose handle, type of plug on the carpet brush cord, and connection of the upper wand to the hose. If you are considering the purchase of an electric carpet brush that is different from your current one, call us when you have the hose, wands and carpet brush nearby.

With the exception of electric carpet brushes, most attachments have a universal fit. The inside diameter of the attachment that connects to the hose or wand is 1 ¼".